Summit day on rainier

The hut at camp muir
Woke up at 11.30 pm to go climbing. Who think that was fun? well not me...
I had put all the things I needed that morning inside my sleeping bag to keep it warm thru the night. And even thou it was super hot when we got to sleep, it got pretty cold during the night. Trying to sleep at 6pm was not an easy task too.

We ended up leaving camp at 1 am. I could see the sea of headlights going up the cathedral gap. This reminded me of our Mont Blanc summit climb. 

The first part was getting up to Ingraham glacier thru Cadaver gap. It was dark but lots of stars in the sky. I don't mind climbing in the dark eventhou it kinda gives you a false sense of security. 
Roping up all 4 of us walked thru ingraham glacier and headed up toward Disappointment Cleaver. It was mixed snow and rock. Because of the warm weather, some of the crevasses opened up and one of them had a ladder so climber walked pass them. It was awesome. 

there's even bathroom
We shorten up our rope moving pass DC. At the top of DC, Dan decided to wait for us there. Wind was blowing pretty hard at this area. We added another layer of clothing and started our climb thru Emmons glacier. Sun starting to peak out at the horizon. 

I was focusing so much on my step, I could barely pay attention to the sunrise which is quite a shame. I looked back to John and man, it was pretty. But unfortunately, it wasn't a great place to stop and take pictures. I was kicking my self now for not having it accessible at all time. 
Moving on the emmons glacier was awesome. We gaining some altitude and had to jump another crevasse again . 
It was nerve wrecking for me because I didn't want to trip on my crampon or did a face plant at Rainier. It would be funny but probably could be fatal.

guide service hut and their tents
The route switched back to the west side of the crater . I think normally people got up to the east side of the crater. But crevasse danger was worse there at this time of the year so the ranger told us to approach it slightly from the west side.  
We made a good time until the last 700 feet then it felt like it was just dragged on and on and on. 
Then there it was.. The crater.. It was big. But danngit!! The true summit was on the other side. The thought of climbing up some more wasn't really appealing to anyone. 
We were all tired but we did it anyway.. I meant, might as well , we were there already. We rested a little bit before packing up and headed to the true summit. 
It was windy as hell at the summit!! We took some pictures and was just ready to head back. 
me and brandon at Mt.Rainier Summit
photo by
It was really getting warmer at that time and the snow started to get slushy. We didn't stop at all at emmons glacier. There are couple more crevasse gaps we needed to jump over. I was dreading doing this on crampon. Like this one right below the summit. In my mind it was a huge gaps and I said I couldn't do it. Then I jumped... while in reality... i was stepping over the gap... Br chuckled.... 

We got back to disappointment clever met up with Dan again, it was a crazy idea for him to wait for us up that high. But he did. He found an area that's a bit sheltered from the wind And he said he enjoyed the sunrise view. 

We started going down DC. It was super slushy. I hated it. I don't like when my feet is sliding when the slope is steep, especially when there's a drop off at the end of the slope. The guys moved down pretty quickly while I moved in snail pace, grunting and cursing ( sometimes loudly). Br and I stayed roped in for this section just in case I slipped. He was being patient. 
I really really just wanted to get out of DC.  
Me and john taking a rest break at Emmons Glacier .
 photo by

All 4 of us roped up for glacier again and man, it felt good to be back in the ingraham glacier as crazy as it sounded while looking at huge dark hole of crevasses all over the glacier. We moved really fast pass the glacier and back to the Cadaver gap.
Then the camp came to view. We could see our 2 tents from the top of the gap. 
15 mins after that we got back to the tent. All tired but happy to get back alive.. 

Then I started worrying about the dogs again. It has been a debacle trying to wrangle where they should be during out climb but particularly for Rainier. There are no dog boarding in Ashford and the closest one being 1 hr away. I wasn't pleased with the place and wasn't feeling great about living them there. They came back to us okay but we are thinking to re-adjust the plan if the next place wasn't great. Kali and neutron are really important of us and this trip made us realized how much we hated dropping them off in kennel. 

john and dan with our tents in view
Decided to stay 2 more nights at rainier.. Had a cabin surrounded by trees. It was awesome. And the dogs are loving it 


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